| Click on the thumbnail to enlarge for
full view. Photo 1
Photo 3
Photo 5
Photo 7
Photo 9
Photo 11
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Seriously though, (not that
drugs aren't a serious problem, but we can't help you there), we figured there just may
still be some of you out there who haven't been crazy enough to totally rip your blower
apart in a desperate search for power gains, so we thought we'd do it for you! For those of you who've opted to replace the nose cone rather than invest in
a reusable pulley removal/installation tool
which provides a simple means of changing the pulley size on yours and everyone else's
car, (we had to get a plug for our product in there somehow, ya know!), you're already
intimately familar with the first few steps of this process!
Photo 1: The first step to disassembly
would be to drain the oil from the nosecone before removing the nosecone.
This is done by removing the breather nut, and tilting the blower on end and
letting the oil simply drain out the end (be sure to catch it in a clean container!).
First remove the filler plug (on the side of the nosecone) with an allen wrench to
relieve the pressure to allow the oil to flow out faster. So, (show of hands) how
many of y'all that replaced the nosecone knew of this trick already? How many of ya
that didn't wish ya did before you spilled that oil all over?
Photo 2: This is the way things look
with the nosecone off. Obviously, remove the bolts holding the nosecone on and pop
it off - you've already drained the oil so it's a fairly clean job! Photo 3
shows the plastic coupler that couples the driveshaft in the nosecone to the rotor gear,
and Photo 4 shows the rotor gears. Nuthin' we haven't seen before
from all the nosecone replacement photos.
Photo 5: Now comes the cool part - the
twisted helix rotors! We very carefully slide these out, being careful not
to touch and scratch the cavity walls with the rotors edge, and here's your teflon coated
rotors in Photo 6. Notice at the end of each rotor is a relatively
small greased pin that inserts into the housing cavity.
Photo 7: This is how the output of the
blower looks viewed from the outside without the rotors, and Photo 8
shows the same view from the inside.
Photo 9: Here's a view looking into
the rotor cavity. The "top" of the blower is in the left hand upper
corner, while the "V" shaped output port is oriented in the left hand lower
corner. Photo 10 shows the same view zoomed in a bit closer.
Notice the opening to the throttle body on the upper side of the cavity. The rotors
suck in air through this opening and force it down and out the "V" shaped output
port. You can clearly see the two openings that the rotors insert into. These
contain precision needle bearings that appear to be greased with high temp wheel bearing
grease, much like the needle bearings in a universal joint (in the drive shaft of a RWD
car). Notice the walls of the cavity - these must be precision machined as the
tolerance between the rotors and the cavity walls must be very tight - any slop there and
your boost pressure would suffer greatly.
Photo 11 is a closeup view of the inlet and
a bearing, while Photo 12 shows the same inlet from the throttle body
side. |
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Click on the
thumbnail to enlarge for full view.
Photo 2
Photo 4
Photo 6
Photo 8
Photo 10
Photo 12
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